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20th Century Fashions in Kimono

A lecture at the Siam Society, Bangkok

Japanese clothing consumption rates escalated over the 20th century, and the rate of

this escalation stimulated distinct changes in kimono style. While foreign fashions did

impact Japanese kimono designs over this period, it is important to acknowledge that

stylistic changes were not solely reflective of fashions emanating from other global

centres. Changes also came from within, the result of indigenous aesthetic concepts as

well as major events including earthquakes, war, and economic booms and recessions.

Since 2020 the number of kimono on the second-hand market has reached

unprecedented quantities. Many of these kimono are silk and wool pieces that were

produced in the Showa period (1926 – 1989). The handmade, labour-intensive sector of

the industry, which was strong until the 1970s, is now, by comparison, very limited.

This extraordinary mix of excessive production of quality textiles and now excessive

dumping means that it is a prime time to collect, be it through Japanese dealers or even

the second hand shops in Bangkok. Caroline will present kimono typical of the changes

in the 20th century, focusing on the post war period and the evolving ideas of luxury that

drove stylistic changes so that we can better see the various types: the fashions in

kimono.

Born in rural Australia, Caroline grew up in the pristine beauty of raw nature. With a

background in fashion design and kimono history, she now lives in Bangkok. Working as

a fashion theorist, she has been humbled working with both weavers and embroiderers in

Kashmir, designers and museums in Tamil Nadu. She has lectured and exhibited in Russia,

India, Australia and Japan.

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Immigration Museum of Tokyo workshop